Smock is a local costume of the people in the Northern part of Ghana. Namely the Mole Dagbani; which comprises of Dagomba’s, the Nanumba’s, and the Mamprusi, Who are all from one descendant; the Tohazie (The Red Hunter). Quality Smocks are mostly sewn in Tamale, but you can find some in Bolga, but the original one from Tamale.
Smock has become a national costume used in the whole country; offices, Parliament House, executive meetings, and official occasions. But Smocks was purposely worn by people of high ranks, dignitaries, and the rich. It was an expensive costume afforded by the rich and chiefs. Smocks were not worn as they are today, they were used in special occasions like the enskinment of a new chief, festivals like the Damba festival and other special occasions.
Occasions Where Smocks Were/Are Used
Smocks were used in special occasions like the Damba festival, enstoolment of a new chief, chief palaces.
- The Damba Festival: This is an annual festival celebrated to mark the birth of Prophet Mohammed (SAW) and the beginning of a new year. This august festival is marked by many celebrations and activities. But the last celebration is the “Biel’Kulsi” (escort homer). Thus, this is the last occasion/ activity where we dress properly and nicely to say good bye to the festival and its rites. Men will wear their nice smocks with their talisman and the ladies will wear their clothes with their scarfs and nice ear rings with nice sandals and shoes. And they will dress their kids properly. The Damba festival is a festival to show off, make your family dress well to show you are also wealthy.
- The Enstoolment of a new chief: On this occasions, men will dress in their smocks and other local costumes to help the newly appointed chief to go for their crowns. in this men will show their manhood by shooting guns and others.
- Local Palace Meetings : Anytime there is a meeting in the palace, we wear smocks. The chief’s reagent and the elders have to wear smocks.
But nowadays we use Smocks in offices, Parliament House, funeral rites, occasions/parties
Types Of Smocks
In Dagbani we have many types of smocks and varieties. Lets list them:
Bin’gmaa/Bin’gma Bagri(Normal Smock With Hands)
These are smocks with sleeves or hands. They are the popular and common smocks people know, and ranges in prices. We have the Dagomba materials, the Gonja, and the Volta-North. There are various sewing styles and designs, hence with different prices. Thus, according to the style and design.
Smocks with hands has been the most fashionable smock. It has some prestige and honor when wearing it. Try it if you have never wear it. Though people like the ones without hands too. I will show you how to wear smocks in the subsequent topics.
This is the Gonja material smock. It also come in variety of colors, and they are nice too. It has a unique scent and texture because of how it has been woven. It also has it short hands.
Yansiki(Sleeveless Batakari/Smock)
The sleeveless smock is a normal smock without hands. Its just like a casual wear. But the one with hands has more prestige than it and its relatively cheap too compared to the one with hands. It comes in variety of colors, designs, and styles.
Kpargu(3 in 1)
These are mostly worn by chiefs and the rich. Its not worn like the normal smock and it has special occasions where it can be used; enskinment, festivals, marriages, and other special occasions. Its very expensive. It also comes in different in styles and designs.
Its an up and down; thus a smock and its trouser(Kurgu) with the hat and another bigger outer smock (Gbargu). Its very nice.
Up and Down
This is up and down with the hat. Dagomba’s normally don’t wear the same material with the hat and the down, it’s mostly worn like that by the Upper East (Bolgatanga). Its very nice and cool to swear.
Kurgu
This is the down called “Kurgu” in Dagbani. It has a variety of styles and designs. This can even be used with normal shirts and tops. Its very cool to wear.
Zug’pilgu(Hat)
The hat is a complicated costume in in Dagban. The position you wear it has meaning and it’s very serious locally. But most Southerners and other people doesn’t know of this.
Let’s elaborate the positions and their meaning’
- When you burn it to the right; this has two meaning. Some interpret it as you are more related to your father’s side than to your mother’s side. On the other hand, it means you don’t want trouble. You are an innocent person.
- To the left; it also means you don’t want trouble, thus you are innocent. On the other hand, you are related more to your mother side than to your father side. Or your mother’s side is stronger than your father’s side.
- To your back, it means you have hope that you will have a descendant. A great family or so.
- And when raised up, it means nobody is above you or ahead of you. It is mostly used by chiefs or kings. And with this, you are strong enough to face people spiritually, because they will try you. Hence, you must have magic before wearing your hat like this.
- To the front too it means nobody is in front, above, or can try you. This is a powerful position, and it signals that any spiritual or evil person can try you. This is where we separate men from women, especially in occasions or festivals. Directly, you are ready for any battle.
This positions are very critical, but most people don’t know, so they wear it anyhow. And it has many repercussions. So let’s learn.
Ladies Wear
This is what modern ladies wear. The old ones are straight dresses and are not all that used nowadays. But we have them and i can deliver them on order. The ladies dress has many designs and styles. You can browse through our site for samples.
Casual Wear For Ladies
These are latest designs. They are very nice and free to wear.
Kids Wear
Boys
These are sewn according to age. So it comes in different sizes. We use different materials to sew this
Girls Wear
The Ladies Cloth
The ladies was normally used in the Damba Festival, enskinment of new chiefs, marriage ceremonies, and other special occasions. That is what women also use to dress. It comes in three pair; they will wear one, place one on their shoulder, and use the other as a scarf.
But nowadays they use it to sew dresses, thus “Kaba”. And normally, 6 yards is used for that.
The Difference Between Smock/ Fugu/ Batakari
In Dagbani we call it “Bin’gmaa”. In English Smock, and the Akan call it Fugu or Batakari. Therefore, there is no difference, it’s just the name.
Ashantes does not have anything like smock in their culture, they have or use the Kente. Smock is from Tamale, Northern Ghana. So Asantes can not mention the name Bin’gmaa so they call it Fugu or Batakri.